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发表于 2004-9-3 09:26
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长江姐妹城:扬镇双城记
Twin Cities On the River
Coursing a distance of thousands miles, the mighty Yangtze River swirls through the provinces of Sichuan, Jiangxi, Anhui and then turns straight towards the east when it arrives Yangzhou and Zhenjiang. The Gemini cities on the river, with a stones throw distance, sharing rises and falls in the history and mutual economic benefits and cultural colors today, are twins bring up by the River Mom. They stand in so close vicinity to each other, thus only a few steps uphill will bring you the view of the thither city.
The Yangtze delta starts at Yangzhou and Zhenjiang. Thousands years ago, it was a place where the leisurely wandering white clouds mirror on the deep blue water, where the wave of the river meets the tide of the sea. Historical relics prove that in the period of Qin and Han, Yangzhou and Zhenjiang are the gateways to the sea. Today on the Jiao Hill of Zhenjiang, people can still visit a spot named Peace Wave Pavilion in the Dinghui Temple, and the Jiao Hill was originally named as Sea Gate Hill. In a famous ode written by a Western Han litterateur, the Guangling Tide was described as oVast and mighty, snow white horses surge, like bleaching curtain flapped in the wind.o It is evident that in the Han Dynasty, Guangling, a place lying closely to Yangzhou today, was a resort for tide seeing. Year in and year out, the river dumps tremendous soil into the sea, and when the sea fade away, the beautiful and rich endowed Yangtze delta then was formed by the mighty power of the river, the sea and the great nature.
With a flat and fertile land, Yangzhou is bestowed by the river; while Zhenjiang gains the scene of mountains as well as the river. In the urban area of Zhenjiang today, people can catch a sight of the flowing river. The two cities witnessed the formation of the Yangtze delta.
Witness Unification and Break Up
Though just across the river, the two cities have a different fortune at different time in the history. One rises at time when the other falls; but in most times, the two cities? fate was closely linked, they are mutually dependent when confronted with a powerful and aggressive enemy, especially at some important historic events.
Sprawling on the hills along the southern bank of the Yangtze River, the city of Zhenjiang clutches the throat of the river. Its name, Zhenjiang, literally translated as River Guard, implies an image of a garrison build on the riverain mountain. While Yangzhou was build besides the water, the ancient name of Yangzhou, Han city, means a city by the side of water. Trace back to 486 BC, Han city was build up by Fuchai, the king of Wu Kingdom, as a military base where he can train his warriors.
He chose Yangzhou because the city lies to the north of the Yangtze River and is dotted with lakes, which is an advantage for canal building and developing transportation. Han Canal, one part of the ancient Grand Canal, was build at that time. The city of Yangzhou was build up 600 hundred years earlier than Zhenjiang which was build up in the later Han Dynasty.
In the dynasty of Han, Tang and Qing, Yangzhou were at its peak. The blossom periods of Yangzhou happened to be the prosperous years of China. In Sui and Tang dynasty, Yangzhou served as a cultural center where talents and literates were gathering. While Zhenjiang, due to its geographical location, prospered at the time when the north falls into the chaos caused by the war. Famous scholars and artists moved to Zhenjiang to find a peaceful seedbed for their literary and artistic creation and brought the city prosperity of culture and economy as well. oEngraved Dragon by Scholastic Mindo, oSelections from Prince Zhaomingo, oWritings at Dream Brooko and other masterpieces were all completed in Zhenjiang.
oWhere the great river meets the Grand Canal.o This is the slogan used by both Yangzhou and Zhenjiang government for public propaganda today. In Sui Dynasty, when emperor Suiyang ascended the throng, he ordered the digging of the Grand Canal that links the Yangtze River in the south with the Yellow River in the north and since then the Gemini Cities, Yangzhou and Zhenjiang, for the first time in the history, walked together, hand in hand, as the hub of waterway transportation which connecting the north and the south of China.
Jingkou and Guazhou, the ferries connecting the two cities can be found in many elegantly composed ancient poems. oClear and bright moon reflecting on the glassy river, scattered lights on the fishing boat guide me the way to Guazhou. The beauty of the Southern China can be best presented in these poems. While besides the poems of landscape and departure sorrow in the peacetime, the poems of warfare and meditation on the past are the more popular theme at the time when the flames of war befell to the mainland. The placidity and poetry of the North Song Dynasty was destroyed by the cruel wars between Jing Kingdom and South Song Dynasty, but in the wartime, both Yangzhou and Zhenjiang stood up as hero cities, here patriotic generals led their people to fight against the ferocious enemies. The two cities on the Yangtze River witnessed the ups and downs; the past heroes and ancestors are still honored by the people here today.
The Dialogue Between the Mountain and the Water
As the only mountain forest city to the south of Yangtze River, Zhenjiang has enjoyed a laudatory title "the first landscape in the world" and "the urban hill and forest". There are many spots of beautiful scenery and ancient relics plus tourist spots. However, Yangzhou is renowned with its water, the extensive watercourse produces the fertile soil and a convenient transportation. What is more, the ingenious Yangzhou people
moved the hill scenery of other places into their own, and further integrated the beauty of the hill and the water. The Pingshan Hall and the Slender West Lake are the excellent examples.
Across a narrow strip of water, a bridge will soon connect the two cities and its people. Zhenjiang, with its beauties of mountains, and Yangzhou, with its nimbus of water, will together present the world a pair of Gemini cities with an enchanting charm.
Translated By Anthony Yang
一、隔江相望的双城
滔滔大江,转折千里,奔流大海。流经四川,名叫川江,流至江西,又叫浔阳,流进安徽,便称皖江,在此江流路线偏向东北,所以有江西,江东之分,流到扬州、镇江,江面更加开阔,大江开始直直向东,成为了东西向的河流,于是,在这里,才有真正的江南、江北之说。也正是在这里,长江开始有了一个最好听的名字——扬子江。扬子江(yangtze)已是世界各国对长江的通称了。
一道大江,就这样隔开了中国的两座历史文化名城:扬州与镇江。这两座长江母亲河边的城市,自古共饮一江水,千年脉脉相守望,在历史上兴亡消长,彼此见证,经济共享,文化互补。说起对岸的历史,就如谈起自己家史那么亲切,他乡遇到隔江的乡贤,如同遇见同乡般动容。
世界第三大河——长江从源头到出海口,沿岸一共有30多个地级以上城市,跨江而建的城市则有重庆、武汉、南京。而隔江相望上规模的也只有扬州和镇江这两座名城。他们相距如此之近,只要登高就都能看见彼此。
扬州的平山堂就有“远山来与此堂平”之题,“江南诸山到此堂下,太守之宴与众宾欢。”这副描写欧阳修扬州文章太守生活的楹联,现在还挂在平山堂。从镇江,同样可以清晰地眺望扬州,南宋开禧元年,66岁的诗人辛弃疾登上镇江北固山,远望扬州,就写下了“四十三年,望中犹记,烽火扬州路”的千古名句。
扬州与镇江,这对扬子江岸边的双子星,是长江母亲几乎同时孕育的双胞胎。今天所谓长江三角洲的起点就是从扬、镇开始的。在焦山,至今还保留有巨大的宁镇山脉抬升断裂的痕迹,焦山古称海门山,山上定慧寺还有”海不扬波”亭,金山之巅在六朝时也筑有“吞海亭”,而在焦山的半山亭石柱上,至今还留存着“海门吞夜月”的石刻联句。由此可见,在秦汉时期,扬州、镇江曾是出入大海之门。
西汉著名文学家枚乘,在名赋《七发》中,生动地描述了“广陵潮”的雄伟奇观:“浩浩皑皑,如素车白马帷盖之张,其波涌而云乱”。清楚地表明西汉时观潮胜地的海口,确在广陵,今日的扬州附近。晋代的郭璞则在他的《江赋》里写道:“鼓洪涛于赤岸,扬余波于柴桑”,说明距今1700年左右的晋代,扬州的赤岸就是海口。
扬州得江之实利,土平地饶,镇江得江山之峻险,有泉林之致。今天,镇江在市内仍能看见长江,是名副其实的一座江城;扬州今天虽离江边尚有十二公里,但在汉代,长江、大海之波涛就在蜀岗下奔涌。镇江、扬州两城共同见证了长三角的形成:六、七千年以前,这里的海水既深又清,悠悠的白云,映照在湛蓝的海水中,海浪与江水竞相奔逐,伟大的母亲河长江,在这里开始把大量泥沙倾入大海,一条越积越厚的沙带从长江口向大海延伸,在几千年时间里,江河、海洋、大自然的伟力共同缔造了今天丰饶的长江三角洲。
二、统一与分裂的见证
盈盈一水间,脉脉不得语,扬州与镇江虽只一江之隔,距离如此之近,但命运却迥然有别。在历史上,扬、镇两城,一面是兴衰消长,此起彼落;一面由于地缘之故,每遇许多重大的历史事件,两城往往是唇亡齿寒,相互牵连,互为见证。
镇江因山而生,得山之险固。镇江之名就指出了其扼江之险的重要。西周时镇江为宜侯封地,名“宜”。春秋时叫“朱方”,属吴国。秦统一天下后,改名为“丹徒”。汉末称“京口”。东晋名“北府”,南刘曰“南徐”,隋初称“延陵”,后改“润州”,唐曾名“丹阳”。北宋政和三年(1113)升润州为“镇江”,一直沿用至今。取其名者,为镇守江防之地的意思。
扬州则因水而生。扬州的最早名称“邗”,就是水岸边的城市的意思。公元前486年,刚刚打败楚国和越国的吴王夫差决心北上与北方诸候争霸,他在长江北岸今天扬州的蜀岗上面,修筑邗城作为基地。夫差之所以选择扬州,是因为在长江下游北岸,只有扬州的北面有大片比长江地势低的洼地,湖泊众多,便于开河储水,运输物资。修筑邗城的同时,夫差又下令在邗城下开凿邗沟,邗沟也是中国大运河最早的一段。扬州的建城时间比汉末孙权在镇江建城要早六百多年。
扬州兴于统一,镇江则兴于国分。
汉、唐、清这三个扬州最繁华的时代,恰恰也是中国的历史上繁荣统一的盛世。就汉代而言,扬州先后成为吴国、广陵国、江都国都城。汉末,中国变乱开始,赤壁大战后,建安十四年(公元209年)夏,曹操命令滨江百姓往北方内迁,《资治通鉴》记载:“民转相惊,从庐江、九江、广陵,户十余万,皆东渡江南,”扬州遂成一座空城。有趣的是,镇江有城也正是在这一年。史料记载:孙权迁都建业(今南京)以前,于建安十四年(公元209年)在京口建“京城”作为新都的军事屏障,又称铁瓮城。镇江这时才开始成为一方的政治中心。
扬州与镇江在中国大历史上第一次完成了历史命运兴与衰的角色转换。
三国、两晋、南北朝,是中国大分裂时期,镇江因为地处江南,作为南朝京城建康的军事屏障,北方战乱频仍,东晋中原鸿儒显宦纷纷南下,移居京口者众多,在这里或完成大业,或著书立说,著名的有:南朝宋开国皇帝刘裕(寄奴),撰有《世说新语》的刘义庆,著有《晋书》的臧荣绪,选编《玉台新咏》的除陵,著有中国第一部系统文艺理论巨著《文心雕龙》的刘勰等。镇江从此进入了历史文化最繁荣的时期。
这时的扬州,却转变成江北的军事重镇,时而归属南方政权,时而归属北方政权,成为南北拉锯战的争夺对象。这是扬州之痛,也是中国之痛!
公元6世纪,在国家分裂的局面中挣扎了400年的扬州,终于迎来了统一。公元588年,杨广统率隋军五十万人,其中一路从扬州过江,攻占镇江,第二年正月,攻下陈朝都城建康(南京),陈朝灭亡,中国终于结束了多年分裂的局面。杨广登基前,做了十年的扬州总管,积极在扬州开展许多文化活动,许多文人云集扬州,这对当时,乃至唐代扬州文化的发展都起到了积极的影响。由于南北文化的统一与交流,扬州的文化中心地位的形成,南朝京口(今镇江)与建康(南京)文采风流尽归扬州了。
“长江和大运河的交汇点”,这是今天的扬州、镇江两市对外都在使用的宣传语。隋炀帝登基后,就下令开凿大运河,大业六年,镇江至杭州的河道——江南河开通,从此,扬州与镇江同处于中国南北交通的枢纽位置上。这是近在咫尺的两座城市的第一次牵手,镇江、扬州,见证了中国分裂与统一的双城,又将中国的江南与江北拉在了一起。
“京口瓜洲一水间,钟山只隔数重山。”这首宋代大诗人王安石的著名抒情小诗,让无数人对瓜洲贮满了诗意。其实,写瓜洲的好诗还有许多,白居易的《长相思》:“汴水流,泗水流,流到古渡头。吴山点点愁。”就堪称描写瓜洲环境、交通、景色最清晰的作品。若论炼句意境,在历代诗人为瓜洲留下的诗篇中,则以唐代张祜的《题金陵渡》最美:“潮落夜江斜月里,两三星火是瓜洲。”诗人在中国诗歌的渡口——瓜洲所留诗篇的主题大体是两种:一是慨叹舟旅之愁思;二是抒发金戈铁马、楼船夜雪的怀古。在中国统一的大时代,往往以第一种为主,在南北失和的时期,其主题又以第二种为多。现在我们把目光移到江的对岸。
“何处望神州?满眼风光北固楼。”这是辛弃疾在做镇江知府时写的《南乡子》,距今已整整八百年了。当时辛弃疾想望见神州,却只看到扬州。“千古兴亡多少事,悠悠,不尽长江滚滚流。”在经过北宋的诗意与平静后,瓜洲与金山又迎来了金戈铁马的严酷和惨烈。在宋金对峙时期,扬州,几乎经历了每一次宋金战争的洗劫。在抗金的过程中,镇江与扬州同是两座英雄城。至今,镇江金山还有梁红玉擂鼓战金兵,韩世忠与金兀术大战黄天荡的遗迹,瓜洲的皂角林还燃起过刘琦与金兵大战的烽烟。富有戏剧性的是,宋金大战也是在扬、镇划上句号的。公元1161年,金最后一次大规模攻宋,金主完颜亮御驾亲征,饮马长江,在瓜洲指挥部队渡江,不料在一个黎明,被部下在金山寺刺杀。这个意外的窝里斗使得惶惶南宋度过了存亡危机。“忆瓜洲星火,京口烽烟”这是焦山枕江阁上楹联中的两句,不正反映了镇江人对扬、镇那段历史的深刻记忆吗?
三、山与水的对话
镇江多山,扬州多水。镇江之山秀哉!山在城中,城在山中,尽显江山之壮阔;扬州之水美哉!河湖纵横,土地膏腴,地势平坦,得尽水土之利、交通之便。
镇江是江南唯一的山林城市。“宋四家”之一的米芾中年后在镇江定居,创造出岚气氤氲的米家山水画法,为后世画家推崇备至;米芾赞颂镇江的“城市山林”四个字今天还留在焦山的碑林。扬州无山,却可以到最近的城市去感受山之深、林之茂、泉之清冽,“扬州八怪”之一的郑板桥就曾结庐于焦山,如今焦山的吸江楼之西不远的绿竹幽林中,还掩映着一座四合庭院,门额写着“郑板桥读书处”,又叫别峰庵。郑板桥曾在此读过书,并留下了“室雅何须大,花香不在多”的名书名句。
扬州无山,聪明的扬州人想方设法地借取江南山景,何况家门口镇江的山还那么美呢?于是,历代扬州人开始了水与山的对话。
“衔远山,吞长江,其西南诸峰,林壑尤美,送夕阳,迎素月,当春夏之交草木际天”,“晓起凭栏,六代青山都到眼。晚来对酒,二分明月正当头”。历史上,欧阳修的平山堂就是一例,平山堂的联句可为证。
明代,已是中年的造园家计成择居镇江,在镇江的造园实践,使他以掇山得法,“声名播于远近”,扬州的郑元勋是计成的好友,他在扬州有一片地,面积不大,“仅十笏之广”。于是他邀计成过江。计成到了扬州,妥为筹划,巧妙安排,以山影、水影、树影、花影为题,以有限的空间构成无限的景色,故名曰影园。没有这段用水与山对话的经历,大概计成也不会在扬州写出中国造园的不朽名著-《园冶》吧。
清代乾嘉年间,扬州的许多富商大贾建园于郊外的瘦西湖,瘦西湖弯曲秀瘦,缺少的是山,扬州人想出了办法:以清湖之淤泥堆叠,造出了一座山,于是瘦西湖上有了一座“小金山”。“借取西湖一角,堪夸其瘦,移来金山半点,何惜乎小。”此联今天悬于瘦西湖月观。
扬州地势平坦,没有较高的山,却利用自己的条件,做足了水的文章。在无山之胜的土地上,扬州人叠山、垒石,建造了大大小小上百处私家园林。“增假山而作垅,家家住青翠城堙,开止水以为渠,处处是烟波楼阁。”清代,扬州获得了“杭州以湖山胜,苏州以市肆胜,扬州以园亭胜”的恰评。
山林,孕育着魏晋风度。在杀戮遍地的时代,人世惨烈、人生苦短和对自由的讴歌往往并存。避开京城的喧嚣与纷争,到大江边、山林深处寻一片安宁,在靠近京城的地方,交通便利,建康的图
书馆有的是好书,加上镇江的山水也适合安静地想想文学和哲学上的事,于是刘勰在这里写成了《文心雕龙》;在政治动荡、官场失意的当口,放下一片追逐权力功名的心,在山林边好好做一个长久的梦,记下自己内心其实最喜欢的事情,于是,沈括在这里写出了《梦溪笔谈》;有文献记载,镇江也是当年萧统读书、编纂《文选》的地方,而发扬光大《文选》的恰恰是扬州人,从隋唐的曹宪、李善注《文选》,到清代阮元的《文笔对》、汪中具体丰富的文学实践,到近代刘师陪的《中古文学史》,六朝文统,生于山林,却长于扬州,作为选学的不二基地,六朝文脉在扬州才得以继承和发扬。
镇江是隐逸的。江流千古,在阅尽千帆之后,是不是有一种伤感?舟旅匆匆,几度夕阳红,是不是也容易产生一点疲倦?这时大江中出现了几座草木葱翠的山,去隐逸吧。于是,镇江出了个大隐士焦光。扬州是现世的,虽未出过一名隐士,但有高僧鉴真,他的首次东渡就从运河驶出瓜洲,带着大唐的气象、胸怀与普渡众生的理想。
扬州因水而生,得水之灵气,水之包容。在这个被称为“天下之逆旅”的大码头,无数货物在这里集散,商贾云集,人文荟萃,许多文化成果在这里总结、积淀,大量文学作品,或写扬州,或成书于扬州,或作者终老于扬州,扬州学派、扬州画派、扬州园林、扬州菜系、扬州工艺、扬州盆景……扬州几成了中国文化艺术最经典的审美取向与标准,讲中国古典,似乎少了扬州就不够完整。扬州的文化象水,包容、贯通、融汇。
到了近代,镇江先于扬州,得开放风气之先。鸦片战争后,镇江成为商埠,在殖民文化的阴影下,传来了近代文明的光亮。火车的开通,镇江将扬州甩到身后。民国建立后,1929年,设江苏省会于镇江。1949年,扬州、镇江解放后,同为县级市又同为省辖市。
若干年来,扬州人往往是从开门七件事了解镇江,一是火柴,二是醋,三是火车。扬州人在历史上错过了办铁路的机遇,镇江的火车就一直为扬州人解决着出行的难题。扬州人到了镇江,常常吃惊地发现:镇江话与扬州话如此相近。还有这样一个与方言有关的故事,获得诺贝尔文学奖的美国女作家赛珍珠(Pear l S. Buck) ,1892年出生刚4个月,尚在襁褓之中,便被身为美国传教士的父母带到中国,在镇江生活了14年之久,度过了自己的童年和少年时代。她曾说过:“我一生到老,从童稚到少女到成年,都属于中国。”她把镇江当作“中国故乡”,在她的传记里,有一幅“说书艺人”的照片,照片下面有这样一段说明,“赛珍珠从小在镇江就爱听说书,得诺贝尔奖时亦称自己是个‘说书艺人’。” 其实这种说书,就是——扬州评话。
今天,我们从镇江,从一江之隔、一衣带水,同方言语区,语言交流毫无障碍的镇江,往往是匆匆而过,往往不再去金山、焦山或北固山了。扬州人今天越走越远,似乎已不把这些小山放在眼里。扬州把镇江当作自己的火车站已有90年的时间了,在我们即将拥有自己的火车站的时候,我们应该感谢镇江,感谢我们的邻居为我们90年的付出。如今在瓜洲,在这个历史的渡口,诗歌的渡口,我们欣然看到,一桥飞架,天堑即将变通途,两座城市即将真正连接在一起。
山,还是镇江城市挺拔的线条。今天,镇江的城市建设已经把“退房还山”作为城建的主要目标,准备用3年,把20多座山从破败的建筑中解放出来,镇江将重现六朝山林的灵秀。
水,依旧是扬州千年延续的美丽。如今扬州的水清了,瘦西湖的水活了,运河也在治理,扬州人还继续向着曾经滨临的江边进发,拉开了沿江大开发的序幕,扬州即将重现大唐的气象。
扬州、镇江,这两座同处长江、运河交汇处,地缘最近,人缘最亲、文化相融的中国历史文化名城,将越走越近,越来越亲。山与水的辉映,将是两个城市共同展现给世界的方式。 |
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